how to make your own briquetes for smoking

Charcoal Briquette

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Background

Charcoal is a desirable fuel because it produces a hot, long-lasting, virtually smokeless fire. Combined with other materials and formed into uniform chunks called briquettes, it is popularly used for outdoor cooking in the United States. According to the barbecue Industry Association, Americans bought 883,748 tons of charcoal briquettes in 1997.

Basic charcoal is produced by burning a carbon-rich material such as wood in a low-oxygen atmosphere. This process drives off the moisture and volatile gases that were present in the original fuel. The resulting charred material not only burns longer and more steadily than whole wood, but it is much lighter (one-fifth to one-third of its original weight).

History

Charcoal has been manufactured since pre-historic times. Around 5,300 years ago, a hapless traveler perished in the Tyrolean Alps. Recently, when his body was recovered from a glacier, scientists found that he had been carrying a small box containing bits of charred wood wrapped in maple leaves. The man had no fire-starting tools such as flint with him, so it appears that he may have carried smoldering charcoal instead.

As much as 6,000 years ago, charcoal was the preferred fuel for smelting copper. After the invention of the blast furnace around 1400 A.D. , charcoal was used extensively throughout Europe for iron smelting. By the eighteenth century, forest depletion led to a preference for coke (a coal-based form of charcoal) as an alternative fuel.

Plentiful forests in the eastern United States made charcoal a popular fuel, particularly for blacksmithing. It was also used in the western United States through the late 1800s for extracting silver from ore, for railroad fueling, and for residential and commercial heating.

Charcoal's transition from a heating and industrial fuel to a recreational cooking material took place around 1920 when Henry Ford invented the charcoal briquette. Not only did Ford succeed in making profitable use of the sawdust and scrap wood generated in his automobile factory, but his sideline business also encouraged recreational use of cars for picnic outings. Barbecue grills and Ford Charcoal were sold at the company's automobile dealerships, some of which devoted half of their space to the cooking supplies business.

Historically, charcoal was produced by piling wood in a cone-shaped mound and covering it with dirt, turf, or ashes, leaving air intake holes around the bottom of the pile and a chimney port at the top. The wood was set afire and allowed to burn slowly; then the air holes were covered so the pile would cool slowly. In more modern times, the single-use charcoal pit was replaced by a stone, brick, or concrete kiln that would hold 25-75 cords of wood (1 cord = 4 ft x 4 ft x 8 ft). A large batch might burn for three to four weeks and take seven to 10 days to cool.

This method of charcoal production generates a significant amount of smoke. In fact, changes in the color of the smoke signal transitions to different stages of the process. Initially, its whitish hue indicates the presence of steam, as water vapors are driven out of the wood. As other wood components such as

Basic charcoal is produced by burning a carbon-rich material such as wood in a low-oxygen atmosphere. This process drives off the moisture and volatile gases that were present in the original fuel. The resulting charred material not only burns longer and more steadily than whole wood, but it is much lighter (one-fifth to one-third of its original weight).

resins and sugars burn, the smoke becomes yellowish. Finally the smoke changes to a wispy blue, indicating that charring is complete; this is the appropriate time to smother the fire and let the kiln's contents cool.

An alternative method of producing charcoal was developed in the early 1900s by Orin Stafford, who then helped Henry Ford establish his briquette business. Called the retort method, this involves passing wood through a series of hearths or ovens. It is a continuous process wherein wood constantly enters one end of a furnace and charred material leaves the other; in contrast, the traditional kiln process burns wood in discrete batches. Virtually no visible smoke is emitted from a retort, because the constant level of output can effectively be treated with emission control devices such as afterburners.

Raw Materials

Charcoal briquettes are made of two primary ingredients (comprising about 90% of the final product) and several minor ones. One of the primary ingredients, known as char, is basically the traditional charcoal, as described above. It is responsible for the briquette's ability to light easily and to produce the desired wood-smoke flavor. The most desirable raw material for this component is hardwoods such as beech, birch, hard maple, hickory, and oak. Some manufacturers also use softwoods like pine, or other organic materials like fruit pits and nut shells.

The other primary ingredient, used to produce a high-temperature, long-lasting fire, is coal. Various types of coal may be used, ranging from sub-bituminous lignite to anthracite.

Minor ingredients include a binding agent (typically starch made from corn, milo, or wheat), an accelerant (such as nitrate), and an ash-whitening agent (such as lime) to let the backyard barbecuer know when the briquettes are ready to cook over.

The Manufacturing 
Process

The first step in the manufacturing process is to char the wood. Some manufacturers use the kiln (batch) method, while others use the retort (continuous) method.

A schematic diagram illustrating the manufacturing processes necessary to create charcoal briquettes.

Charring the wood

• 1 (Batch process) It takes a day or two to load a typical-size concrete kiln with about 50 cords of wood. When the fire is started, air intake ports and exhaust vents are fully open to draw in enough oxygen to produce a hot fire. During the week-long burning period, ports and vents are adjusted to maintain a temperature between about 840-950° F (450-510° C). At the end of the desired burning period, air intake ports are closed; exhaust vents are sealed an hour or two later, after smoking has stopped, to avoid pressure build-up within the kiln. Following a two-week cooling period, the kiln is emptied, and the carbonized wood(char) is pulverized.
• 2 (Continuous process) Wood is sized (broken into pieces of the proper dimension) in a hammer mill. A particle size of about 0.1 in (3 mm) is common, although the exact size depends on the type of wood being used (e.g., bark, dry sawdust, wet wood). The wood then passes through a large drum dryer that reduces its moisture content by about half (to approximately 25%). Next, it is fed into the top of the multiple-hearth furnace (retort).
  Externally, the retort looks like a steel silo, 40-50 ft (12.2-15.2 m) tall and 20-30 ft (6.1-9.14 m) in diameter. Inside, it contains a stack of hearths(three to six, depending on the desired production capacity). The top chamber is the lowest-temperature hearth, on the order of 525° F (275° C), while the bottom chamber burns at about 1,200° F (650° C). External heat, from oil-or gas-fired burners, is needed only at the beginning and ending stages of the furnace; at the intermediate levels, the evolving wood gases burn and supply enough heat to maintain desired temperature levels.
  Within each chamber, the wood is stirred by rabble arms extending out from a center shaft that runs vertically through the entire retort. This slow stirring process (1-2 rpm) ensures uniform combustion and moves the material through the retort. On alternate levels, the rabble arms push the burning wood either toward a hole around the central shaft or toward openings around the outer edge of the floor so the material can fall to the next lower level. As the smoldering char exits the final chamber, it is quenched with a cold-water spray. It may then be used immediately, or it may be stored in a silo until it is needed.
  A typical retort can produce approximately 5,500 lb (2.5 metric tons) of char per hour.

Carbonizing the coal

• 3 Lower grades of coal may also be carbonized for use in charcoal. Crushed coal is first dried and then heated to about 1,100° F (590° C) to drive off the volatile components. After being air-cooled, it is stored until needed.

Briquetting

• 4 Charcoal, and minor ingredients such as the starch binder are fed in the proper proportions into a paddle mixer, where they are thoroughly blended. At this point, the material has about a 35% moisture content, giving it a consistency somewhat like damp topsoil.
• 5 The blended material is dropped into a press consisting of two opposing rollers containing briquette-sized indentations. Because of the moisture content, the binding agent, the temperature(about 105° F or 40° C), and the pressure from the rollers, the briquettes hold their shape as they drop out the bottom of the press.
• 6 The briquettes drop onto a conveyor, which carries them through a single-pass dryer that heats them to about 275° F (135° C) for three to four hours, reducing their moisture content to around 5%. Briquettes can be produced at a rate of 2,200-20,000 lb (1-9 metric tons) per hour. The briquettes are either bagged immediately or stored in silos to await the next scheduled packaging run.

Bagging

• 7 If "instant-light" briquettes are being produced, a hydrocarbon solvent is atomized and sprayed on the briquettes prior to bagging.
• 8 Charcoal briquettes are packaged in a variety of bag sizes, ranging from 4-24 lb. Some small, convenience packages are made so that the consumer can simply light fire to the entire bag without first removing the briquettes.

Byproducts/Waste

During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, recovery of acetic acid and methanol as byproducts of the wood-charring process became so important that the charcoal itself essentially became the byproduct. After the development of more-efficient and less-costly techniques for synthesizing acetic acid and methanol, charcoal production declined significantly until it was revitalized by the development of briquettes for recreational cooking.

The batch process for charring wood produces significant amounts of particulateladen smoke. Fitting the exhaust vents with afterburners can reduce the emissions by as much as 85%, but because of the relatively high cost of the treatment, it is not commonly used.

Not only does the more constant level of operation of retorts make it easier to control their emissions with afterburners, but it allows for productive use of combustible off-gases. For example, these gases can be used to fuel wood dryers and briquette dryers, or to produce steam and electricity.

Charcoal briquette production is environmentally friendly in another way: the largest briquette manufacturer in the United States uses only waste products for its wood supply. Woodshavings, sawdust, and bark from pallet manufacturers, flooring manufacturers, and lumber mills are converted from piles of waste into useful briquettes.

The Future

Charcoal and briquette production methods have changed little in the past several decades. The most significant innovation in recent years has been the development of "instant-light" briquettes. A new version being introduced in 1998 will be ready to cook on in about 10 minutes.

Books

Emrich, Walter. Handbook of Charcoal Making: The Traditional and Industrial Methods. Hingham, MA: Kiuwer Academic Publishers, 1985.

Moscowitz, C. M. Source Assessment: Charcoal Manufacturing: State of the Art. Cincinnati, Ohio: Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Research and Development, Industrial Environmental Research Laboratory, 1978.

Periodicals

Scharabok, Ken. "Amaze Your Friends and Neighbors: Make Your Own Charcoal!" Countryside & Small Stock Journal (May 1997): 27-28.

Zeier, Charles D. "Historic Charcoal Production Near Eureka, Nevada: An Archaeological Perspective." Historical Archaeology 21(1987): 81-101.

— Loretta Hall

Read more: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Charcoal-Briquette.html#ixzz3wdNbJdsn

1. Concentrated. Since briquettes are created from compressing combustible materials, they are denser, harder, and more compact. They have high specific density (1200kg/m3) and bulk density (800kg/m3) compared to 60 to 180 kg/m3 of loose bio mass. Thus, they offer a more concentrated form of energy than firewood or charcoal.
2. Slow-burning. The compression process allows the briquettes to burn for a lot longer than if it was loose in its original condition.
3. More efficient. Along with the compactness of the briquettes is the increase in heating value. Briquettes can relatively produce more intense heat than other fuel. They have a higher practical thermal value and much lower ash content (2-10% compare to 20-40% in coal). In fact, they are 40% more efficient, as well as hotter and longer lasting than firewood. This greater efficiency can be attributed to their low moisture and density.
4. Smokeless. This is a unique property of briquettes. Using them creates no smoke, soot, or carbon deposits. Depending on the base material, they produce no or little fly ash. Further, briquettes do not emit gases or any toxic chemicals like sulfur.
5. Availability. Biomass is the main component in producing briquettes. So where do we get this biomass? Look around you, and there are loads of biomass materials here, there, and everywhere.
6. Easy to make. There are presently commercial briquettes sold in the market. However, ordinary households can produce briquettes. You must only have a stock of combustible matter, a binder, and a molder to shape the briquettes.
7. Easily stored. The size and shape of briquettes make them easily be stored. We can readily pile them in several heaps because of their fun shapes like cubical, spherical, cylindrical, or rectangular blocks. They are likewise clean to handle and be packed into bags.
8. Easily transported. Compacting biomass waste into briquettes reduces the volume by 10 times, making it much easier to store and transport than loose biomass waste. Considering their shape, size, and density, briquettes are excellent for long distance transport. Likewise, loading and unloading cost are much less and are done easier.
9. Cheaper. Since briquettes can be domestically made from plants and animal wastes, they are consequently less expensive to produce, and thereby sold at lower prices.
10. Renewable. Briquettes make use of organic materials which are common and renewable. Hence, we are ensured of the sustainability of such fuel source.

Kingsford briquites are made of

·         Wood char

·         Mineral char

·         Mineral carbon

·         Limestone

·         Starch

·         Borax

·         Sodium nitrate

·         Sawdust

new list for woods to use for bbq and not to use

acacia alder almond apple apricot ash bay beech birch

butternut cherry chestnut cottonwood crabapple fig grapefruit grapevine

guava hackberry hickory kiawe lemon lilac madrone manzanita

maple mesquite mulberry nectarine oak olive orange peach

pear pecan persimmon pimento plum sassafras walnut willow not to use

guava and ecualeptus for bbq

ecualuptus is not suitabl for bbq

Woods To Avoid

The conventional wisdom is that cedar, cypress, elm, eucalyptus, liquid amber, pine, redwood, fir, spruce, and sycamore are not suitable for smoking. When in doubt about a particular smoke wood, play it safe—don't use it until you confirm with a reliable source that it's OK for use in barbecuing.

Mixing Smoke Woods

guava logs or chips ok not guava leaves

all wood used for smoking except adler

mesquite tree

Mesquite beans an excellent wild edible

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMjoaXpMJb4

how to grow a cherry tree ?

Cherries

the good is they are good for bbq smoke 

bad is they take 4 years to grow fruit or to be able to chip wood for smoke

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbKS8HDwOdM

     

Description

Sweet cherries are the ones most often found in markets. They have a thick, rich, and almost plumb-like texture. Traditionally, sweet cherry trees are self-sterile and best for an orchard or a large garden. You'll need at least two or three trees so that they can pollinate each other. However, a recent and exciting development in sweet cherries is the dwarf self-pollinating “Stella.” (See image below.)

Sour cherries are not usually eaten raw, but are widely used for preserves and other cooking uses. Sour cherries are much smaller than sweet cherries and all varieties are self-fertile.

Standard-size trees start bearing fruit in their fourth year and can produce 30 to 50 quarts of cherries each year.

Dwarf Cherry Tree (Prunus Avium 'Compact Stella'). Credit: www.spaldingbulb.co.uk

Photo Credit:

www.spaldingbulb.co.uk

Sun Exposure: 

Full Sun

Soil Type: 

Any

Botanical Name: 

Prunus avium (Sweet Cherries) Prunus cerasus(Sour Cherries)

Plant Type: 

Fruit

Hardiness Zone: 

4

5

6

7

Soil pH: 

Slightly Acidic to Neutral

Planting

• For sweet cherries, make sure the different varieties will pollinate each other.
• Plant sweet cherries in late fall or early winter if grown outside, or at any time if container grown.
• When planting fan-trained trees, construct the necessary supports before planting.
• Space fanned trees 15 to 18 feet apart.
• Planting for sour cherries is the same as for sweet cherries, however, space bushes and fans only 12 to 15 feet apart.

Care

• Thinning is not necessary.
• Apply mulch to retain moisture.
• Drape netting over trees to protect the fruit from birds.
• Water routinely in dry areas.
• There is no difference in care between sour and sweet cherries.

Pests/Diseases

• Aphids
• Caterpillars
• Brown Rot
• Black Knot
• Bacterial Canker (cut out any branches with signs of black knot or bacterial canker as soon as possible)
• Birds

Harvest/Storage

• Pick fruits with stalks when fully ripe.
• Eat or cook immediately.
• Pick fruits when firm if they are to be frozen.
• Hand-picking may injure the shoots and cause infection; Cut the stalks with scissors

How to Plant Cherry Seeds

Three Parts:Preparing Cherry SeedsPlanting Cherry SeedsCaring for Young Cherry TreesQuestions and Answers

All commercial cherries are grown from grafts or tissue samples so the growers know exactly what they're getting. Planting the pits is a project for home growers who want to take on a challenge and see what comes up. Keep in mind that cherry trees often grow to 25 ft (7.6 m) or taller. You can't always guarantee fruit, so make sure you want that centerpiece in your yard!

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Part 1 of 3: Preparing Cherry Seeds

1.            1

Know what to expect. Cherries do not grow true to seed, meaning the tree won't be the same variety as its parent.^[1] You might get a tree that can't survive your climate or local diseases, or that doesn't bear tasty fruit. But you might get a new and beautiful tree, and either way you'll have fun along the way.

·         If you want better odds, plant a young tree instead. A local nursery can recommend a hybrid plant suited to your climate and soil.

2.            2

Choose your cherries. Ideally, find fresh cherries from a local tree or farmer's market in mid to late summer. Early-fruiting varieties are often sterile, while grocery store fruit can work but tends to have a low success rate.^[2][3] Get a good large handful, since not all of them will sprout. There are two common species of cherry to choose from:^[4]

·         Almost all fresh cherries for sale are sweet cherries. These are the best for eating, but most are only hardy in USDA hardiness zones 5–7.

·         Sour cherries tend to be easier to grow, and can survive in zones 3-8 depending on variety. The fresh kind can be hard to track down, so ask around at your farmer's market.

3.   

3

Eat the fruit. Lucky for you, the flesh of the fruit needs to go before planting. Enjoy the fruit and wipe off the last bits clinging to the seed with a damp paper towel.

·         If it's still early or mid-summer, let the seeds dry on a paper towel for a couple days, then store in an airtight container in a cool spot.^[5] Retrieve them in late summer and continue to the next step.

4.   

4

Consider planting outdoors in early fall. Cherries need to experience constant damp and cold for 3–5 months in order to germinate. If you get cold winter weather about this long but don't get below -20ºF / -30ºC, you can go the easy route and plant the cherries in fall. If you decide to do this, skip down to the next section. If you don't live in this climate or you prefer a method with a higher success rate, continue to the next step instead.

·         Sweet cherries do best with a couple weeks of warm weather before the cold. Planting in late summer or the very start of fall can accomplish this. However, a "warm snap" after the cold weather has started can send some cherries back into dormancy.^[6] Refer to an almanac or other long-term weather prediction to avoid this.

5.            5

Keep sweet cherries in warm, moist sphagnum moss for two weeks (optional). Many people skip this step and still see a few cherries sprout, but this should increase the germination rate for most sweet cherries.^[7] Here's how to set up this process, called warm stratification:^[8]

·         Buy fresh, sterile milled sphagnum moss. This material fights off mold, which is the biggest risk at this stage. Handle moss with clean gloves to avoid introducing spores.

·         Put the moss in a plastic bag or container and add room temperature water (68ºF / 20ºC).^[9] Let it absorb the water for 8–10 hours, then squeeze out the extra moisture.

·         Pop a few air holes in the lid. If using a plastic bag, leave it slightly open at the top.

·         Add the cherry seeds and leave them there for two weeks at the same temperature. Check after the first day or two to pour out standing water, then weekly to throw out moldy seeds (if any).

6.   

6

Transfer to cold, moist material. Next, you need to convince your indoor cherries they're going through winter. This "cold stratification" treatment is very similar to the last step, with a few details changed:

·         You can use sphagnum moss again, but peat moss or a 50/50 mix of peat moss and sand may work best.^[10] Vermiculite will work as well.^[11]

·         Add enough water to moisten the material without getting it soggy, then add seeds.

·         Place in the refrigerator or other area between 33º and 41ºF (0.5 to 5ºC) (ideally at the top of this range).^[12]

7.            7

Keep refrigerated for about 90 days. Most cherries need three months of cold treatment before they're ready to plant, and some prefer five. Check on the seeds every week or so. Pour out standing water if present, and add a little more water if the material is drying out.

·         Check more often toward the end of this period. If the hard seed coats have begun to crack, plant right away or reduce the temperature to 32ºF (0ºC) until you're ready.^[13]

8.            8

Plant in spring. As soon as the last severe spring frost passes, the cherries can go in the ground.^[14] Check out the next section for detailed instructions.

·         If you want to get started early, you can plant the cherries in a large indoor pot.

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Part 2 of 3: Planting Cherry Seeds

1.            1

Choose a spot with good soil. Cherries need plenty of sun and good air circulation. They prefer fertile, sandy soil with excellent drainage and neutral or slightly acidic pH.^[15]

·         The young tree needs room for a taproot. If planting in a container, it should be at least 8 inch (20 cm) deep.

·         Cherries are very hard to grow in clay soil. If you want to make a serious attempt, build a raised bed 1 foot (0.3 meters) high.

2.            2

Plant less than 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. Poke a hole with your finger down to the first knuckle, and drop a cherry seed into the hole. Plant the cherries 1 ft (0.3 meters) apart for now, but expect to transplant the survivors 20 ft (6m) apart eventually.^[16]

·         You can plant the cherries closer together, but you'll need to thin them once the shoots reach 2 inches (5 cm) high.^[17]

3.            3

Cover depending on the season. If you went with the fall planting method, cover with 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) of sand. This prevents a frozen crust from blocking the shoots once they come up. If you're planting the seeds in spring, just sprinkle a light cover of soil and water it in.^[18]

4.            4

Protect seeds from rodents. If planted directly in the ground instead of pots, the seeds will be a major target for digging and burrowing animals. Cover the area with a wire screen or hardware cloth, bend the edges, and sink them several inches into the ground to form a barrier.^[19] Remove this barrier once the first sprouts appear.

5.   

5

Water occasionally after the last frost. Water the seeds lightly after the last spring frost. Water only once the soil is almost dry. Young cherries cannot stand waterlogged soil, but can't stay dry for too long either.

6.   

6

Wait for germination. Cherries are slow to germinate. If you followed both the warm and cold stratification steps, you can expect to see some sprouts within the next few months. Even then, some seeds might take an entire year to germinate, breaking ground the following spring.

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Part 3 of 3: Caring for Young Cherry Trees

1.            1

Keep the soil slightly moist. You'll want to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Once the cherry develops a taproot, test the soil to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) and water whenever this feels dry. Water in a slow trickle until the soil is wet to the depth of the root.^[20] This won't take long at first, but remember to adapt as the cherry grows to a proper tree.

2.            2

Transplant once established. Once the plants have grown to about 6 in (15 cm), or large enough for their roots to compete or hit the base of a pot, give them some extra space. Either thin out the shortest sprouts or transfer them further apart. Each tree should have 20 ft (6m) of space.

·         Keep in mind that cherries can grow 25–50 ft (7.6–15.2 m) tall, depending on variety. With pruning, you can keep this to 15 ft (4.6 m) or less.^[21]

3.            3

Mulch annually. Top dress the trees with well-rotted compost every year in early spring.^[22] Start this the year after they sprout, since mulch can block seeds from breaking through.

·         Fertilizer is best avoided with young trees, since it's easy to burn them. The compost should give plenty of nutrients.

4.            4

Protect from pests. The most difficult part of growing cherry trees is their susceptibility to pests and disease. Take these steps to protect them once they grow into proper trees:^[23]

·         Surround young trees with a cylinder of wire fencing to protect against deer.

·         Once a month, look for holes in the trunk leaking ooze or sawdust-like frass. Poke a needle into these holes to kill insects.

·         In spring, wrap trunks with mosquito netting to stop boring insects from laying eggs.

·         In late fall, sink a hardware cloth barrier 2 inches (5cm) down into the soil on all sides to protect against rodents. This barrier should be high enough to protect against a rodent standing on expected snowfall.

5.            5

Protect from strong winter sun. In early fall, whitewash the south side of the tree with white, nontoxic latex paint, diluted with water to a thin consistency. The trees are susceptible to sun damage during this time of year.^[24]

·         Whitewash the north side instead if you are in the Southern Hemisphere.

6.            6

Prune the cherry tree as it grows. Cherry trees aren't too difficult to prune, but a little will go a long way toward fruit production and aesthetics. Generally speaking, sour cherries just need a little pruning to keep the branches symmetric. For sweet cherries, prune back the central leader to promote lateral growth instead.

7.            7

Consider grafting. Left alone, your cherry tree will often take five or more years to bear fruit, if it can manage it at all. Grafting is a little risky with seed-grown trees, since you don't know the variety, but your local nursery may be able to recommend a fruiting species. You can graft this onto a two-year old tree and have fruit by the third or fourth year if the graft takes.

8.            8

Pollinate the blossoms. The beautiful flowers alone are reason to grow cherry trees. If you'd like to see them replaced with fruit, though, they'll need to be pollinated. For most sweet cherries, this means you'll need a second variety of sweet cherry nearby, blooming at the same time. Honeybees are the most common pollinator for cherries. If you're using pesticides, make sure they don't affect this important species.^[25]

9.    9

Fend off birds. No one has ever grown cherries without giving birds a share. If you're lucky enough to see fruits starting to form, set up your defenses before they finish ripening. There are several ways to distract or scare off the birds, including planting mulberries (which they find even tastier) and hanging shiny objects from the cherry branches.
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Tips For Planting Cherry Seeds: Can You Grow A Cherry Tree Pit

Image by radarreklama

By Amy Grant

If you are a cherry lover, you’ve probably spit your share of cherry pits, or maybe it’s just me. At any rate, have you ever wondered “can you grow a cherry tree pit?” If so, how do you grow cherry trees from pits? Let’s find out.

Can You Grow a Cherry Tree Pit?

Yes indeed. Growing cherry trees from seed is not only an inexpensive way to grow a cherry tree, but it’s also lots of fun and delicious!

First off, can you grow a cherry tree in your region? Cherry varieties are hardy through USDA zones 5-9, depending upon the type.

Now comes the hard part. Eat some cherries. That’s a tough one, huh? Use cherries from either a tree growing in the area or purchased from a farmers market. Cherries from the grocers are stored in such a way, refrigerated, that makes starting seeds from them unreliable.

Save the pits from the cherries you’ve just devoured and put them in a bowl of warm water. Let the pits soak for 5 minutes or so and then lightly scrub them free of any clinging fruit. Spread the clean pits out on a paper towel in a warm area and let them dry for 3-5 days. Then, transfer the dry pits to a plastic container, labeled and fitted with a tight lid. Store the pits in the refrigerator for 10 weeks.

Why are you doing this? Cherries need to go through a cold or stratification period that normally occurs naturally during the winter, prior to germination in the spring. Refrigerating the pits is artificially mimicking this process. Ok, seed planting of cherry trees is now ready to commence.

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How to Grow Cherry Trees from Pits

Once the ten weeks has passed, remove the pits and allow them to come to room temperature. You are now ready for planting the cherry seeds. Put 2-3 pits into a small container filled with planting medium and water the seeds in. Keep the soil moist.

When the cherry seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin them, removing the weakest plants, leaving the sturdiest seedling in the pot. Keep the seedling in a sunny area indoors until all danger of frost has passed for your region, and then transplant outside. Multiple trees should be planted at least 20 feet apart.

Seed Planting Cherry Trees

Growing cherry trees from seed can also be attempted directly in the garden. In this method, you are skipping the refrigeration and letting the seeds go through a natural stratification process through the winter.

In the fall, gather the dried cherry pits and plant them outside. Plant a few since some may not germinate. Set the seeds 2 inches deep and one foot apart. Mark the planting sites.

In the spring, the pits will sprout. Wait until the seedlings are 8-12 inches in height and then transplant them to their permanent site in the garden. Mulch well around the transplanted seedlings to retard weeds and aid in water retention.

And, there you have it! Planting cherry seeds is as simple as that! The difficult part is waiting for those luscious cherries.